Chef Bao La Adds a Burst of Flavour and Character to Madam Kew

Photographed by Mervin Lee

After months of being confined within four walls, Saigonese ladies flocked to their favourite hair and nail salons, spas and massage parlours in preparation for their grand debut into the ‘new normal’. The first few weeks saw ladies donning new clothing, hairstyles, eyelashes and nails. Funnily, it seemed like everyone in the city underwent some form of a makeover! Madam Kew included.

Madam Kew (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

While on the surface, Madam Kew appears to be the same. A closer look reveals what Chef Bao claims was a ‘missing part of Madam Kew’s identity’ alluding to a menu reflective of Madam Kew’s life: an impoverished Chinese girl who escapes Shanghai in pursuit of a career in stardom which she finds in Saigon where she lived a clandestine life amid the city’s underground world of show business.

“I’ve always felt there was something missing in Madam Kew. Food is a big part of Asia’s cultural and social fabric; you can tell so much about a person just by observing what and how he or she eats.

So, when the opportunity came to bring Madam Kew to life, I jumped at it, put on my apron and got in the kitchen!" says Chef Bao.

Street food inarguably forms the bedrock of food culture in Asia yet arduous hours spent making soup, hand-rolling dumplings and pulling noodles from dawn till dusk culminates in a few cents or dollars. “But why?” questions Chef Bao who spent his formative years working as a kitchen hand in his family’s Vietnamese restaurant in Australia and is all too familiar with the tedious processes and intricate techniques behind a bowl of pho.

Of course, genuine street food still very much has its place in the cities and in the hearts of residents and tourists alike. However, Chef Bao believes the custodians of this bedrock of food culture don’t receive enough recognition. Hoping to change the narrative and spotlight Asian street food fare, ingredients and techniques in a mission to elevate its value and appreciation, Chef Bao is paying much-deserved tribute to classic street food fare in modernised kitchens across the world. This can be seen in his culinary stints at Le Garçon Saigon and Le Petit Saigon in Hong Kong and now at Madam Kew in Saigon. Customers packed the counters at Chef Bao’s concepts and for good reason…

Pork ‘Siu Yuk’ Bossam with burnt pineapple salsa, green apple kimchi and fresh herbs (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

Chef Bao pays tribute to classic street food fare in the modernised kitchen of Madam Kew in a mission to spotlight the distinct ingredients, flavours and culinary techniques that underpin Asian cuisine.

Unlike home-spun Asian fare, which has a straightforward emphasis on the use of rice wine, soya sauce, sesame oil as well as cooking techniques such as wok and stir-fry, Bao’s menu combines traditional flavours with playful gastronomic techniques, texture and plating.

Best known for his commitment to purity, artisanal and wholesomeness, Chef Bao brings this forward at Madam Kew through clever and creative interpretations of popular dishes such as Thai Larb, Mapo Tofu and Taiwanese Sichuan handmade knife-cut noodles. With a penchant for vegetarian cuisine, Bao’s menu is best described as plant-forward and features many vegetarian and vegan-friendly options.

V-Larb (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

Notable mentions include the V-Larb, which is based on the popular Thai Dish ‘Larb’, a traditionally meat salad which Chef Bao reinterprets as vegetarian with the clever use of falafel instead. It’s wonderfully seasoned with chilli flakes and lime juice to give it some crunchy texture and a wonderful assortment of fresh herbs. Not often does an appetiser enamour me but this menu standout easily warrants a visit to Madam Kew.

Eggplant ‘Mapo Tofu’ (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

Another dish worth mentioning is the Eggplant Tofu based off the popular Chinese dish - Mapo Tofu. For the sauce, Chef Bao uses dried shiitake mushrooms and aubergine to inject a rich umami flavour and to mimic the texture of minced meat, which is traditionally used for this dish. Coddling the sauce is a bed of whipped tofu which perfectly complements the chunky umami-laden sauce with its rich and smooth texture. All atop a crisp spring onion pancake and let’s just say this winning combination is sure to accord this dish its signature status.

Wagyu Sichuan handmade knife-cut noodles (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

For mains, Chef Bao’s Wagyu Sichuan handmade knife-cut noodles topped with grilled cabbage steals the show. Slathered in a thick coat of Sichuan sauce, the handmade knife-cut noodles are wonderfully chewy. The dish arrives as a generous portion of grilled Wagyu beef and cabbage resting on a bed of hand-cut noodles.

Although it lacks in punch compared to its ‘mala’ namesake, Chef Bao believes “spice is subjective" and prefers to allow hungry diners to customise their dish using the tableside condiments provided. Despite the absence of the said Sichuan mala peppercorns, a mouthful of moreish Sichuan-dressed noodles, smokey grilled beef and crunchy cabbage is all it takes to teleport one momentarily to the streets of China. And that’s not to mention the perfect done-ness of the grilled Wagyu beef.

Vietnamese-style BBQ chicken in lemongrass, turmeric and lime leaf ‘cham cheo’ (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

Of course, there is also the main course of Vietnamese-style BBQ Coquelet marinated in lemongrass, turmeric and lime leaf ‘cham cheo’ (dried chili, roasted salt, garlic, chopped cilantro, lemongrass) dipping sauce, which arrives wonderfully tender with a springy bite. Though less sweet than its Vietnamese ‘ga nuong’ counterpart, I appreciate Chef Bao’s tangier and zesty approach to the dish. Overall a bold yet well-balanced dish that’s well-cooked.

Tiki-inspired cocktails created to pair with Madam Kew’s new food menu (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

To accompany Chef Bao’s food, the bar team at Madam Kew has created a Tiki-inspired cocktail menu featuring refreshing and fruity drinks that complement and balance the bold, spicy, strong and smokey flavours of Chef Bao’s menu.

A talented team of tastemakers under one roof

From left to right: Kim, Chef Julien Perraudin, Chef Bao La and Vlad (Photographed by Mervin Lee)

Like many concepts during the lockdown that banded together during the ‘new normal’ including Heart of Darkness and BEL Coffee Wine Bar, Madam Kew adds to the list.

Boasting a talented team of industry tastemakers under one roof including Chef Julien Perraudin (Vietnam Chef of the Year - 2019 and 2020), Kim (Manager of Quince Saigon), newly-joined manager of Madam Kew, Vlad. Yes Saigon, this means you can now find dynamic duo - Chef Julien and Bao La - whipping out lip-smacking dishes while taking cues and inspiration from each other. So, in the words of Chef Julien, “come hungry”.

Oodles of noodles, swingin' good times and just a dash of voluntary incarceration — say hello to the new Madam Kew.

Address: 37bis Ky Con, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, District 1 Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Operating Hours: 5pm to 9pm daily
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/madamkewbar

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