Review: Elgin - what keeps me coming back?

Since its opening in August 2022, Elgin has fast become a favourite of mine (and many others around me). In a city no short of new restaurant openings on the regular - what keeps me coming back to Elgin? I can’t quite put my finger on it but it’s the vibe, food, atmosphere - a certain je ne sais quoi.

Photo courtesy of Elgin

First and foremost, it’s stunning. It’s hard not to miss it when you’re driving past.

Located on Mac Dinh Chi, Elgin is an open and airy two-story restaurant flaunting nude pink walls interspersed with bunker chair seating, floor-to-ceiling windows as well as an open kitchen where Head Chef Curtis Demyon sits at the helm next to a repertoire of open grills and ovens. The upstairs is perfect for large groups though I highly recommend grabbing a seat at the counter where the action is for your first time.

Here, the kitchen dishes out “global contemporary cuisine” paired with a list of natural and organic wines plus delicious cocktails all night long and the service is admittedly one of the best in town. In saying this, I feel I should add a caveat that service in Vietnam is rarely personal, proactive or consistent (in my opinion, don’t hate me) but the young and bubbly team at Elgin (many of whom cut their teeth in the renowned Black Sheep Restaurant group) delivers first-rate service, which begins even before you step into the restaurant.

Photo courtesy of Elgin

A quick second after making your reservation, a confirmation lands in your email alerting you that your reservation is confirmed with thoughtful questions such as “are you celebrating a special occasion” or “does anyone have any dietary restrictions?” And once you step in, you’re greeted at the door by the lovely team and a pin board full of polaroids with happy customers and memories. A ‘labour of love’ understandably as Elgin, while new, has been in the pipeline for a few years due to COVID. When their final co-founder (one of four) finally made her way to Vietnam in 2022, plans were already afoot to open the restaurant.

The sense of camaraderie amongst the team is ineffable and not only sets you at ease but makes you want to keep having another glass, chat and keep the food coming. It’s a fun and playful vibe courtesy of the team’s banter that carries over to the chef’s counter. Here, the menu is explained in detail with daily specials and signatures thoughtfully recommended by the team - I’ve been back multiple times and each time, new dishes that I’ve yet to try are pointed out to me. Bravo.

From multiple visits, the below are my must-trys:

Photo courtesy of Elgin

Duck confit, apple, walnuts and blue cheese - not a new combination, especially in a salad but layer on a thin, crisp yet soft texture from the roti and you get a Duck Roti (290,000 VND) dish worthy of signature status. Tender duck confit is shredded and strewn across the homemade roti alongside blue cheese fondue, apple, kale, spicy walnuts and finely-chopped herbs.

Roll it up and this one-bite wonder bearing subtle hints of smoked pear vinaigrette and decidedly bold flavours - sweet, savoury, zesty, smokey - hits all the right notes and is more textural. Simple yet satisfying, the flavour of each individual ingredient really shines through and their marriage is…delicious.

Photo courtesy of Elgin

The menu standout is the Razor clam fried rice (215,000 VND) which is tossed with garlic, scallion, chili, mushrooms, cashew and stir fried in a wok giving it that unique fire-kissed ‘wok-hey’ flavour. Topped with a generous amount of razor clams for that savoury umami flavour and texture, ask for a side of homemade sambal chilli for that extra burst of spice and zest (if you can handle the heat). Well-balanced flavours without being heady or oily, this dish is deftly-executed and refined.

Photo courtesy of Elgin

Light and fluffy gnocchi and beautifully-tender lamb dressed in a savoury tomato sauce, basil and Manchego - what’s not to love? This hearty Lamb Gnocchi Sugo (365,000 VND) easily reminds you of a traditional Italian recipe passed down for generations. The subtle hint of preserved lemon adds a lovely touch. I’m a big fan of lamb and this is one of the best I’ve had in town.

Photo courtesy of Rey.winter.stuff

My final rave is reserved for the Sticky toffee pudding (180,000 VND), which was recommended to me by Chef Curtis himself during my first visit. I’ve had it every single time since. The dessert served a la mode is warm, soft and fluffy and arrives enveloped in a layer of decadent toffee sauce. However, it isn’t dense or heavy like some others I’ve had thus making it the perfect conclusion to a wonderful dinner. Plus, a serving of crunchy bacon brittle and vanilla ice-cream, never fails.

Disco-themed party at Elgin (Photo courtesy of Elgin)

To end, Elgin hits all the right notes for a restaurant made for success - it’s beautiful, delicious, creative without being unapproachable or unpretentious. But more importantly, it’s got character. From its interiors (playful pinboard) to personal service and themed events (Disco parties featuring costumes and decoration) - Elgin is playful, fun and welcoming. Much like its team, perhaps this elusive je ne sais quoi that I find myself referring to that keeps me coming back is in fact the soul of Elgin brought to life by the heart and hospitality of the team. As the popular saying goes, “keep your team happy and they’ll keep your customers happy”.

Price point: 650,000 VND sans alcohol
Address: 27 Mạc Đĩnh Chi, Đakao, District 1, Hồ Chí Minh City
Opening Hours: 6 pm to 10:45 pm (closed on Mondays)
Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/elgin.sgn

Featured Articles

Follow me on Instagram